I've never been one to adorn my house in cutesy holiday decor. You won't find American-flag-themed chairs on my porch during summer, or four leaf clovers on my front door in March. So, I will admit, the idea of making soaps to fit each season did not immediately appeal to me. I had visions of pilgrim shaped molds and I could not imagine a situation where I personally would EVER be inclined to purchase such soap, so why would I make them?
Then, one morning this fall, I had an epiphany...as everyone mulled around the farmer's market, decked out in their long pants and high turtle necks to ward off the bite of the crisp autumn air, I realized we were surrounded by pumpkins, and gourds. The air was thick with the smell of spiced nuts and cider. It felt like fall. It smelled like fall, and undoubtedly, it looked like fall. And, as with every change of season, there was EXCITEMENT in the air! People were done with the hot days of summer. At this moment in time, they were looking forward to cool nights, colored leaves, trick-or-treaters and holiday feasts. It was palpable... and contagious. And it made me realize that anybody who sells anything, from soap to real estate, would be a fool not to tap into this collective energy that seems to enrapture us all at the turn of each season. That is not to say that I will run right out and purchase a pilgrim shaped soap mold... but there is no reason not to create a soap that captures the energy of the season while still reflecting your own personal artistic intuitions. And there are so many natural options!
For Halloween, why not make a purple and black swirl with alkanet root powder and activated charcoal? For general fall colors, turmeric creates a great yellow; rose hips make a nice brick red color; beer makes a nice earthy tan; and cocoa makes a beautiful shade of brown. Layered or embedded, swirled or solid... there are so many creative ways to capture the colors and scents of autumn while still making a versatile, beautiful soap that doesn't compromise your artistic integrity or look ridiculously out of place at other times of year. In finding that balance, I realized that working with seasonal inspirations doesn't have to limit your creativity or compromise your artistic vision, and it can, in fact, expand your versatility and marketability.
Showing posts with label Soap as Art. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Soap as Art. Show all posts
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Monday, October 4, 2010
To Gel or Not to Gel? Gel Phase and Cold Process Soap
When I first began making cold process soap, I was convinced that proper insulation was the key to making good cold process soap. It seemed like every book I read, every site I visited and every person I talked to had 3 golden rules to soap making:
1) Insulate, insulate, insulate!
2) Let it sit for 24 hours
3) DO NOT PEAK!
I was absolutely CONVINCED that improperly insulating or jumping the gun and removing it prior to that magic (if not a bit arbitrary) 24 hour mark would some how irreparably ruin what would have otherwise been a perfect bar of soap. Imagine my surprise when I found out soap makers have options!
Why do soap makers insulate?
The method of cold process soap making naturally generates heat as the lye reacts with the oils. As it heats up, the soap goes through a process called gel phase. Basically, during gel phase the saponification process speeds up, the oils begin to harden and the color usually becomes a bit darker or otherwise morphs (depending on the colorant you are using). Since the gel phase does change the appearance of your soap, it is important that the soap is heated evenly throughout. If the soap heats unevenly, you may end up with what is called a "partial gel." In a log mold, this usually looks like a odd colored oval running through the center of your soap. This is because, naturally, the soap in the middle will retain heat better, while the soap near the edge will lose heat more quickly. As a result, if left uninsulated, the edges of your soap may not reach gel phase, while the soap in the middle of your mold will. A partial gel is not dangerous, but it may look funny and, if you've spent a great deal of time creating a beautiful pattern in your soap the uneven coloring can be quite disappointing. Insulating your cold process soap helps ensure an even color throughout.
So why would anybody NOT insulate? Well, it goes to reason that if you can get an even appearance by ensuring that the soap HEATS evenly throughout, then you should be able to get an even appearance by ensuring that the soap stays evenly COOL throughout. But there's more...
Preventing Gel Phase
There are a variety of reasons why people prevent gel. Many argue that the colors are richer, the texture is creamier and the scent stronger in ungelled soap. But preventing gel phase isn't as easy as you might think. Cold process soap naturally wants to heat up. If you simply do not insulate, you will likely wind up with a partial gel. You can put your soap in the fridge or freezer, but depending on your recipe and mold, you may still end up with a partial gel. I find that it is easiest to prevent gel phase when I use smaller, shallow molds. I have yet to successfully prevent gel in my log mold! But it can be done! If you are going to try it, there are some important things to remember:
1) It should stay in the fridge/freezer for at least 24-48 hours
2) Forcing the soap to stay cool slows the saponification process. This means it may take several days before it passes the "zap test" and should cure for a full 6 weeks
3) Let it come to room temperature before cutting, or it may crumble
Pros and Cons
Based on my experience, there are some pros and cons to preventing gel:
Pros:
1) Insulate, insulate, insulate!
2) Let it sit for 24 hours
3) DO NOT PEAK!
I was absolutely CONVINCED that improperly insulating or jumping the gun and removing it prior to that magic (if not a bit arbitrary) 24 hour mark would some how irreparably ruin what would have otherwise been a perfect bar of soap. Imagine my surprise when I found out soap makers have options!
Why do soap makers insulate?
The method of cold process soap making naturally generates heat as the lye reacts with the oils. As it heats up, the soap goes through a process called gel phase. Basically, during gel phase the saponification process speeds up, the oils begin to harden and the color usually becomes a bit darker or otherwise morphs (depending on the colorant you are using). Since the gel phase does change the appearance of your soap, it is important that the soap is heated evenly throughout. If the soap heats unevenly, you may end up with what is called a "partial gel." In a log mold, this usually looks like a odd colored oval running through the center of your soap. This is because, naturally, the soap in the middle will retain heat better, while the soap near the edge will lose heat more quickly. As a result, if left uninsulated, the edges of your soap may not reach gel phase, while the soap in the middle of your mold will. A partial gel is not dangerous, but it may look funny and, if you've spent a great deal of time creating a beautiful pattern in your soap the uneven coloring can be quite disappointing. Insulating your cold process soap helps ensure an even color throughout.
So why would anybody NOT insulate? Well, it goes to reason that if you can get an even appearance by ensuring that the soap HEATS evenly throughout, then you should be able to get an even appearance by ensuring that the soap stays evenly COOL throughout. But there's more...
Preventing Gel Phase
There are a variety of reasons why people prevent gel. Many argue that the colors are richer, the texture is creamier and the scent stronger in ungelled soap. But preventing gel phase isn't as easy as you might think. Cold process soap naturally wants to heat up. If you simply do not insulate, you will likely wind up with a partial gel. You can put your soap in the fridge or freezer, but depending on your recipe and mold, you may still end up with a partial gel. I find that it is easiest to prevent gel phase when I use smaller, shallow molds. I have yet to successfully prevent gel in my log mold! But it can be done! If you are going to try it, there are some important things to remember:
1) It should stay in the fridge/freezer for at least 24-48 hours
2) Forcing the soap to stay cool slows the saponification process. This means it may take several days before it passes the "zap test" and should cure for a full 6 weeks
3) Let it come to room temperature before cutting, or it may crumble
Pros and Cons
Based on my experience, there are some pros and cons to preventing gel:
Pros:
- Creamier looking texture
- Some colors are more vivid
- Uncolored soap usually appears whiter
- Some scents come through stronger
- Can be difficult to fully prevent gel
- Some colors, like alkenet, look worse
- It takes longer to saponify
- It does not seem to last as long in the shower
Monday, September 27, 2010
Choosing Natural
There are plenty of reasons to choose organic products, from environmental and animal rights benefits, to reasons for personal health and safety. But even for people who do not feel strongly about incorportating organic products into all aspects of their life, there are good reasons to choose all natural beauty and skin-care products.
Many soap makers add synthetic compounds to boost lather, create a harder, longer-lasting bar, or to add vibrant colors or scents. None of these additives contribute any beneficial skincare qualities to the soap. Instead, they are usually added to reduce cost or add sensory appeal and they often contain a number of toxins.
I WILL admit that when it comes to coloring soap, my artistic side WAS drawn to the vibrant colors and irredescent shimmer that can be achieved with micas, oxides and lab colors. It was definitely tempting to play with these and, as many people are quick to point out, these types of colorants are used in nearly everything we encounter, from the food we eat to the clothes we wear. But rather than easing my concerns, it was THAT sentiment... the idea that we are surrounded by artificial colorants and toxins every day... that made me realize that this is the exact reason I shouldn't use them in soap.
It is no secret that many of the things we take for granted in our daily lives do in-fact contain toxins. Many ingredients are recognized by the FDA as toxins, but approved for use in such small quantities that they are deemed "safe." But when you think of everything we consume and use that contains a small quantity of toxins, it really begins to add up. Why should our skincare routines contribute to the unnecessary toxins that are already creeping into all aspects of our lives?
Apart from my concern about unnecessary toxins, I choose not to use synthetic fragrance in my soap for a couple of reasons. For one, I am cursed with hyper-sensitive skin and many synthetic fragrances irritate sensitive skin. This is what got me interested in natural skincare in the first place. I find that the fewer things I put on my skin, the better off I am. Then, when I found out that fragrances are governed by trade secret laws and that nobody really knows what is in them and that many contain pthalates and other harmful ingredients... well, that sealed the deal! I definitely am not going to put something in my soap if I don't know and can't tell others what it is!
In the end, creating soap as an artistic endeavor without the sensory appeal of synthetic fragrances and beautiful bright colors, definitely can be challenging. But, who doesn't love a good challenge?
Many soap makers add synthetic compounds to boost lather, create a harder, longer-lasting bar, or to add vibrant colors or scents. None of these additives contribute any beneficial skincare qualities to the soap. Instead, they are usually added to reduce cost or add sensory appeal and they often contain a number of toxins.
I WILL admit that when it comes to coloring soap, my artistic side WAS drawn to the vibrant colors and irredescent shimmer that can be achieved with micas, oxides and lab colors. It was definitely tempting to play with these and, as many people are quick to point out, these types of colorants are used in nearly everything we encounter, from the food we eat to the clothes we wear. But rather than easing my concerns, it was THAT sentiment... the idea that we are surrounded by artificial colorants and toxins every day... that made me realize that this is the exact reason I shouldn't use them in soap.
It is no secret that many of the things we take for granted in our daily lives do in-fact contain toxins. Many ingredients are recognized by the FDA as toxins, but approved for use in such small quantities that they are deemed "safe." But when you think of everything we consume and use that contains a small quantity of toxins, it really begins to add up. Why should our skincare routines contribute to the unnecessary toxins that are already creeping into all aspects of our lives?
Apart from my concern about unnecessary toxins, I choose not to use synthetic fragrance in my soap for a couple of reasons. For one, I am cursed with hyper-sensitive skin and many synthetic fragrances irritate sensitive skin. This is what got me interested in natural skincare in the first place. I find that the fewer things I put on my skin, the better off I am. Then, when I found out that fragrances are governed by trade secret laws and that nobody really knows what is in them and that many contain pthalates and other harmful ingredients... well, that sealed the deal! I definitely am not going to put something in my soap if I don't know and can't tell others what it is!
In the end, creating soap as an artistic endeavor without the sensory appeal of synthetic fragrances and beautiful bright colors, definitely can be challenging. But, who doesn't love a good challenge?
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